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A glimpse at how history, terroir and technique come together in Spain's Rioja region to create some of the world's most interesting and beloved wines.
For many wine-drinkers, seeing the word Rioja on a wine list is a guarantee of quality and a safe bet. Spanish Rioja's are indeed fine wines and have become synonymous with quality for fascinating and unique reasons. A Closer Look at RiojaRioja (pronounced Ree-aw-hah) is neither a grape, nor a style of wine but a region of Spain where some of the world’s best wines are made. As in France, the Rioja district has strict laws that govern the variety of grapes grown, how they are aged and for how long. (It may surprise some people to know that Spain has been making wine far longer than France. Centuries ago, when the vineyards of France were destroyed by Phylloxera, Spain benefited from the influx of French winemakers whose techniques and procedures are the basis for today’s bodegas.) Wines labeled Crianza must have spent at least twelve months in oak barrels, while Reservas have been aged for at least three years, a minimum of which must be in oak for twelve months. The highest level is Gran Reserva which typically hail from exceptional vintages and are aged for a minimum of two years in oak and up to three years in the bottle. The type of oak barrels used are also controlled by the government laws, and are classified as ‘barricas’ or Bordeaux-style barriques, a 225 litre (59 gallon) barrel which allows for greater contact with the wine to impart the classic vanilla characteristics so admired in wines from Rioja. A Benchmark Wine from RiojaAs with any popular wine region, there are several levels of quality and it isn’t always easy to know if the bottle on your dinner table is the best you can find. The labeling terms of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are a very helpful guide in finding superior wines from Rioja, however, there is one name that delivers excellence and takes the guess work out of your decision: Bodegas Tobía. Oscar Tobía’s family has been making wine for many decades, however, it wasn’t until he and his wife, Ana, took over the business in 1994 that it became the artisanal winery it is today. The wines of Tobía are all made from free-run juice that have not been pressed which makes for wine of high quality without the stringent characters of over-extraction. Rioja is most often associated with red wines, and while Bodegas Tobía is known for outstanding red wines, Oscar believes that the soil, climate and weather of Rioja are also suited to superior white and rosé wines as well. Tobía produces three white wines, two rosés and four reds. They were the first winery to introduce a barrel fermented rosé in 1996, a most unusual but exceptional style bringing complexity and layers not often found in a rosé wine. Among many prestigious accolades afforded the wines of Oscar Tobía was in April 2008 when the Control Board of Rioja carried out a blind tasting of wines from each category (white, rosé, Crianza, Reserva etc) and awarded the Oscar Tobía Reserva 2004 the honor of representing the Reserva category from the Rioja DOC. On your next stroll down the Rioja aisle of your wine shop, consider taking home a white or rosé from the region – you may discover a new favourite and if you have the good fortune to encounter a wine from Bodegas Tobía, the choice is easy. For more information, visit the Control Board of Rioja or explore the wines of Oscar Tobía.
The copyright of the article Not Your Average Rioja in Spanish Wine is owned by Tara O'Leary. Permission to republish Not Your Average Rioja in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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