In Rioja, Tempranillo forms its buds late and ripens early. This early ripening is the source of its name , which means "little early one". Tempranillo also has many different regional names, including Aragonez, Cencibel, and Tinto de Toro.
On the Vine:Tempranillo vines are traditionally bush-pruned and widely spaced. A trip through the vineyards of Rioja is a bit jarring for most wine-lovers. Instead of the orderly rows of wire-strung vines, you see widely spaced little trees, some of them on stocks (trunks) as thick as a man's arm. The berries are low in sugar and acid which leads to lower alcohol levels. Tannins levels are high, although the typical soft tannins are not especially intrusive, because of the thick skins and even moderate alcohol versions can be very long-lived.
Its aromas and flavors are distinct but hardly overwhelming. Look for earth and leather along side berry fruit with hints of pot herbs. Its essential delicacy has led to some blending with Cabernet in recent years. The best Riojas also sport a touch of minerality. Tempranillo’s most frustrating character is that it occasionally fails to develop flavor in what would otherwise be considered a good year.
In the Cellar Back in 2001, the preference for high fermentation temperatures and protracted aging in American oak was still firmly entrenched. But Tempranillo’s delicate fruit makes oak aging a dicey business: current wisdom among winemakers is that enough is often too much. Today, less wood exposure is more common. For the same reason. temperature-controlled fermentations are now pretty much the rule. More recent tastings in New York have revealed a shift to overt fruit flavors with just a hint of oak. Carried to Argentina, Tempranillo has had success in the irrigated vineyards of Mendoza, producing a wine with more overt fruitiness and reliable ripe character.
For all its nobility, Tempranillo is also the original grape in Sant’gria, the peachy, sweetened wine punch beloved of student travellers to Spain.
Although the best years' vintages are used for reserve and grand reserve wines that command high prices, and in spite of the Euro's refusal to return to parity with the dollar, there is still lots of inexpensive, delicious Tempranillo around. For the real deal, look for these bargains.
Torres Coronas Penedes: $10, surprisingly rich on the palate, widely availiable
Marques de Riscal: $10, This pioneering producer makes a sophisticated Rioja wine, with an intriguing fruit and herb bouquet, light structure-perfect with fish and fowl. The winery and Frank Gehry designed guest reception is a major pilgrimage destination for wine travelers.
Venta Mazzaron: $15 from the Toro in Spain, lively tannins enhance the medium-body and ripe fruit.elegant and luscious.
Urban Uco: $10, another ten dollar find. This one is from Argentina and it’s typically fuller-bodied than the Spanish offerings.
